Three Days in Florence: Jewelry and Clothing

diamond necklace at The Silver Museum, 1850, Palazzo Pitti

The rest of my time in Florence was filled with museums and wandering, my two favorite things to do while traveling. Here are my jewelry and clothing favorites:

display of seed pearl jewelry at The Silver Musem, Palazzo Pitti

The Silver Museum has a small but excellent collection of historical jewelry, including pieces once belonging to Marie d'Medici. It also includes a contemporary collection of Italian jewelers like Giovanni Corvaja and Stefano Marchetti. I was especially interested in the 17th century seed pearl pieces--intricate, complex, and delicate designs with individually sewn pearls. I was also fascinated by the collection of carved ivory and the amber reliquaries. 

The Palazzo Pitti also hosts a wonderful Costume Gallery. It includes both antique and contemporary examples and pairs many of them together so you can see the similarities that have been repeated and reinvented over time. These sleeves on a dress by Roberto Cappucci really caught my attention.

16th century burial dress of Eleanor of Toledo at Palazzo Pitti Costume Gallery 

One of the most interesting exhibitions I have ever seen included the burial clothing of Grand Duke Cosimo d'Medici, Eleanor of Toledo, and her son Don Garza. Their garments were removed some years ago and painstakingly reconstructed. The fabrics are stained and in tatters, but reveal a great deal in the hidden details. They even appear like maps, spread out in each display with drawings to fill-in the "gaps" where fabric no longer exists.

Instant Saint by Manfred Bischoff

I visited Antonella Villanova, a contemporary jewelry and art gallery. I got to see work by Flora Vagi, Kiki Smith, and Manfred Bischoff. There were drawer after drawer of pieces to see:

The "Flora World" display at Museo Gucci--the square designs hanging in the back are original illustrations by Vittorio Accornero 

Doris Maninger from Alchimia suggested I go to the Gucci Museum which I didn't even know about and was grateful for the recommendation. The museum tells the story of Gucci with gorgeous examples of clothing and accessories and objects for the home. 

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Three Days in Florence: Alchimia

waiting for the lecture to begin

I spent three days in lovely Florence last weekend. On Friday I gave a lecture at Alchimia: Contemporary Jewelry School. My talk was a basic over view of my process and work from Line Drawings to my most current work, "Observation/Translation." The talk felt good and as I spoke and looked around the room at my audience, students seemed engaged as they nodded and smiled back at me. I answered a few questions at the end and then did just a few one-on-ones. I also enjoyed lunch with Doris Maninger, one of the school's founders, a real pleasure.

Chiara Cavallo with her work

Lucy Clark with her work at her bench 

(Lucy is also a friend of mine from Penland! It was so great to see her!)

a brooch by Doris Maninger

Tomorrow I will tell you about the interesting things I saw as I wandered.

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Day Trip: Siena

Doumo

I went to Siena yesterday with Marissa. We began at the Duomo, an elaborate and dramatic cathedral in black and white marble stripes built from 1215-1263. We toured the interior, the library, the crypt (which was only discovered in 1999!), and the museum. (The museum includes some amazing metalwork, enamels, and embroidery.) We also climbed a narrow spiral staircase to the top of a wall to see a panoramic view of the city and Tuscan countryside. Then we went to the Sanctuary of St. Catherine and Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico. The Basilica is where you can see St. Catherine's head and her finger, both displayed in reliquaries. (She died in the late 1300s!) Since I read about the saints all winter long this was incredibly interesting for me and quite astonishing to see in person. The basilica itself is vast and very, very quiet. No photos are allowed and few people were inside. It was wonderful.

view from the wall of the Duomo

ceiling of the library at the Duomo

photo of a postcard showing the head of St. Catherine

Marissa and me at the steps of the Duomo

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Professoressa Due

I worked with the advanced metals students again today. First they showed me the materials they had chosen at the market yesterday. Then I had them make a list of the materials they were interested in yesterday but did not choose and asked them to compare these items to the list of 50 things from a few days ago. I also had them write for 15 minutes about the material they did choose. (I feel very strongly about the importance of writing about your work--you will learn so much about your work and process especially if you write consistently and often.) Next I asked the girls to make at least three samples with the material they chose in the remaining class time. We gathered together needles and thread and various office supplies like staples and tape, all of which they could use to help fabricate and connect their samples. (This exercise was very similar to my 3D sketching class and their samples should lead them to ideas for final pieces.) At the end of class I asked them questions about the samples and we talked about how the "sketches" could translate into finished pieces. I'm looking forward to seeing what they make in the coming days and will be back at the end of next week for a final crit after my excursions to Florence and Venice.

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Professoressa

I taught the advanced metals class yesterday and earlier today. I began by giving a short PowerPoint presentation on ideas. I described my process and talked about the different ways I find and develop my concepts. I showed images of studio exercises, works-in-progress, and finished pieces. Then I lead the students through a 30-minute exercise, asking them to list things they like and then organize them into broader themes. When they were done I explained how the list becomes a tool and can be revisited and revised. We also talked about brooches because the students are about to begin their final project--two brooches that incorporate different materials alongside metal and, most importantly, beautiful pin backs.

metals studio

Italy Intensives school

Today we walked down to Certaldo Basso to the Wednesday farmer's market so students could find their material of choice--one material to be used in two different ways. The material can be manipulated in any manner they wish--sewn, painted, burned, etc.After we browsed the entire market, Marissa and I left them alone to purchase their materials without any "pressure" from us, their instructors. 

all sorts of stuff at the market

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First Glimpse: Certaldo

I arrived in the tiny walled village of Certaldo, Italy on Sunday. As I walked through the Pisa Airport earlier, I was greeted by the smiling face of my friend and colleague, Marissa Saneholtz, who teaches here. We then drove through the Tuscan countryside for about an hour before arriving at Certaldo. After dropping off my suitcase, she took me on a walking tour and I met students and some Italians who live and work there. Later in the evening we went to a dinner party at Linda Darty's apartment where I got to meet the other instructors over Italian wine and cheese and lots of other wonderful dishes. (Linda is a metalsmith and enamelist and the head of the Italy Intensives program.)

Begun in the 13th century, the village of Certaldo Alto includes two churchs, the home of Boccaccio, a museum, a handful of restaurants and shops, a hotel and a B & B, and the Italy Intensives program. The population is about 200. Here are a few photos I've collected already of things I find inspiring:

curtains at the Il Castella, the hotel

rooftops from one of the three towers

chandelier

antennae

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London Again

19th century jewelry at the British Museum

The first stop on my Europe Part 2 trip was London. I spent just two days there but packed in tons of stuff. The first day I arrived very early in the morning and after putting my luggage in storage at my apartment I hopped on the tube and went to the British Museum. I specifically went to see the wonderful collection of 19th century jewelry and then weaved my way through several more rooms to see as much jewelry as I could from other time periods. My favorite piece was this gold cape from the Bronze Age.

Gold Cape at the British Museum

Spare Parts

Later that evening I met up with metalsmith Mark Fenn and went to the opening reception of "Spare Parts," a solo exhibition of the work of David Clarke at Gallery SO. I know both artists via Facebook so it was fantastic to meet them in person and spend some time. David's show was great to view up close, too. 

Raven Row Gallery

The next day I went to Raven Row Gallery to see an exhibition of the work of Běla Kolářová. I was not familiar with her work until I visited this show and I'm so glad I did not miss it! Her photographs of arranged objects, collages of broken razor blades, and prototypes for jewelry were incredibly appealing to me. 

Běla Kolářová "Enclosed World" in broken razor blades

Běla Kolářová "The Alphabet of Things"

Běla Kolářová - prototypes for earrings

Crafted

Next I visited Somerset House where I saw two different exhibitions: "Crafted: Makers of the Exceptional" and "Landmark" The Fields of Photography". Crafted featured the work of artists in a variety of media and included mock studios and Landmark was simply astonishing. 

Landmark: The Fields of Photography

Finally, I visited the Victoria and Albert both Friday and Saturday. On Friday I met up with Helen Carnac and we looked at the collection of contemporary ceramics. Then on Saturday I indulged myself with yet another visit just to see the jewelry which I will never, ever tire of. I got there right as the museum opened so I had about 20 minutes completely alone. It was heaven. 

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